Suede vs Leather Jacket: The Differences and Which to Buy

If you want a jacket that copes with rain, daily wear and very little fuss, choose smooth leather. If you want something softer and more relaxed, mostly for dry days and smart-casual outfits, choose suede. Both come from the same hides; the difference is which side of the leather faces out and how it has been finished, and that changes how each one looks, feels, wears and needs looking after.

Quick answer: suede vs leather at a glance

	Smooth leather	Suede
Surface	Grain side of the hide, smooth or lightly textured	Fibrous side of the hide, buffed to a soft nap
Feel	Firmer at first, softens with wear	Soft and supple from day one
Rain	Shrugs off showers with basic care	Marks easily when wet unless protected
Care	Wipe clean, condition now and then	Brush regularly, protector spray, gentle spot cleaning
Ageing	Develops a patina	Nap can flatten and darken where it rubs
Suits	Daily wear, most seasons, classic biker and racer shapes	Spring, autumn, relaxed and smart-casual outfits

How suede and leather are made

A hide has two faces. The outer face, the grain, is the tight, hard-wearing layer that once had hair on it. Smooth leather jackets show this side. Full-grain leather keeps the whole grain layer intact, so it is the strongest and ages most gracefully, while corrected-grain leather has been sanded and coated to even out marks. You can read more about what we use on our leather page.

Suede shows the other side: the looser fibres underneath. These are buffed until they form a short, velvety nap. Suede is often made from a split of the hide, the layer left once the grain has been separated off, which is why it feels lighter and drapes more softly than a grain leather of a similar weight. Every suede jacket we make is real suede, not a synthetic microfibre.

Look and feel

Smooth leather has a cleaner, sharper look. It catches the light, holds a structured shape well and suits classic styles such as the biker, café racer and racer. A jacket like the men's black leather café racer or The Onyx women's black leather jacket looks crisp from the first wear.

Suede is matt and softer to the eye. It absorbs light rather than reflecting it, so colours like brown and mocha look warmer and richer. It sits naturally on relaxed shapes such as shirt jackets and truckers, and it reads as a little dressier than leather when worn with chinos or tailoring. The men's mocha suede shirt jacket and the men's brown suede trucker jacket are good examples of that easy, softer look.

Weather and everyday durability

This is the biggest practical difference. The grain surface of smooth leather is tight, so light rain beads off it, especially once it has been conditioned. Scuffs can often be buffed out, and the leather slowly darkens and takes on a patina that many people prefer to the new look. Our Heritage tan calfskin leather jacket is a good example: tan leather visibly deepens and softens as you wear it.

The open, napped surface of suede soaks up water and dirt more readily. A short shower will not ruin it, but heavy rain can leave water marks and stiffen the nap if it dries badly. Oils from hands and skin can also darken it over time around the cuffs and collar. That does not make suede fragile, just less forgiving. Treat it with a suede protector spray before the first wear, keep it for drier days and it will last for years.

Care and cleaning

Looking after smooth leather is simple:

• Wipe it with a soft, slightly damp cloth when it gets dirty, then let it dry naturally.
• Condition it a couple of times a year, or whenever it starts to look dry.
• Hang it on a wide, shaped hanger away from radiators and direct sunlight.

Suede needs a little more attention:

• Brush it regularly with a suede brush to lift the nap and remove dust.
• Use a suede eraser on small marks before reaching for any liquid.
• If it gets wet, blot it, let it dry at room temperature and brush it once dry.
• Re-apply protector spray every so often, especially before autumn.

Neither should ever go in a washing machine. For more detail, see our leather and suede care guide.

Which should you buy?

Choose smooth leather if:

• it will be your only jacket and you plan to wear it most days, in most weather;
• you like the structured shapes of bikers, racers and Harringtons;
• you want a jacket that improves with wear and needs little upkeep.

Choose suede if:

• you already own a leather jacket and want something different;
• you mainly need a layer for spring, autumn, dry days and travel;
• you prefer a softer, more relaxed look with knitwear, shirts and chinos.

If you want suede with a bit more edge, the men's brown suede biker jacket combines the classic biker shape with the softer finish. For a light layer you can wear more months of the year, the men's lightweight brown suede leather jacket is made for weekends and travel. Women's suede jackets are on the way in our new arrivals, and you can browse every current style in our jackets collection.

Fit works the same way for both

Whichever you choose, fit matters more than finish. The shoulder seams should sit at the edge of your shoulders, the sleeves should end around the wrist bone, and you should be able to cross your arms without the back pulling tight. Suede usually feels soft from the first day, while smooth leather relaxes over the first few weeks of wear. Our guide on how a leather jacket should fit goes through it step by step, and our size guide has the measurements.

FAQs

Is suede real leather?

Yes. Suede is real leather with the inner side of the hide facing out, buffed to a soft nap. It is a different finish, not a different material. Faux suede is a synthetic fabric, and we do not use it.

Is suede or leather warmer?

Warmth depends more on the lining, the cut and what you wear underneath than on the finish. Smooth leather blocks wind slightly better because its surface is tighter, while suede often feels lighter. For real cold, choose a jacket built for winter and layer a knit underneath.

Can you wear a suede jacket in the rain?

A light shower is fine, especially if the jacket has been treated with a protector spray. Avoid wearing suede in heavy rain. If it does get soaked, blot it, let it dry naturally away from direct heat and brush the nap once it is dry.

Which lasts longer, suede or leather?

With sensible care, both last for many years. Smooth leather is more forgiving of daily wear and bad weather, so it tends to keep looking good with less effort. Suede lasts just as long when it is brushed, protected and kept out of heavy rain.

Every jacket we sell is real leather or real suede, made to order after you buy it. If standard sizes never fit you quite right, choose made to measure and send us your shoulder, sleeve, chest and length measurements: it costs nothing extra. Start with our men's jackets or women's jackets, and see our shipping page for delivery times.